Progress Report – Butterick 5145

Progress Report – Butterick 5145

I am starting to put the pieces together, but first I wanted to point out some more of my cutting technique with this pattern. The pattern envelope is a little deceptive:


It clearly shows a houndstooth pattern and the pattern appears to go very evenly along the middle horizontal seam

If I had cut the pattern exactly as the pattern pieces, that line would angle up, not go straight across. Something to keep in mind.

This is the front piece, with tape measure to give you an idea of angle

With the dart closed, the pattern still angles up, and the houndstooth would not go across evenly.

To solve this, I cut the bottom straight across, rather than angled up. It changes the shape only slightly, but gives a nice horizontal line across.


I did the same with the side pieces and back piece. Incidentally, I made the back piece one piece instead of 2 pieces with a middle seam.


On to putting the pieces together!

4 thoughts on “Progress Report – Butterick 5145

  1. Hi Melissa,
    I could ease the dart, but personally I really, really like the bust dart. I felt the houndstooth print was small enough that the darts would not be too much of an issue, as long as I made them as symmetrical as possible on either side.
    I must admit I have Claire Schaeffer's 'High Fashion Sewing Secrets' book and it has been gathering dust in my closet for six years! But I did pull it out for this project. I will have to order her other book, thanks for that!

  2. You could also do away with the dart altogether and ease it in instead. Claire Schaeffer describes it in "Couture Sewing Techniques" to avoid problems exactly like this with plaids and houndstoths. It's up on Google's Book Search so you can read the pages that pertain to it…

  3. You wouldn't have been happy with it had you sewn it their way. I wonder if they have the real sample online anywhere to look at… I believe they always draw the illustrations from actual sewn samples. Maybe in this case they didn't? Well, no matter. Yours is better than theirs already and you aren't even done yet!

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