Butterick B5145

Butterick B5145

Back from our not so great holiday to Squaw Valley and feverishly sewing. What have I been working on for my first project for 2008?

image of B5145

This cute jacket, the short version. With a lovely 1/4 inch houndstooth wool purchased last week at Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley.

houndstooth.jpg I’ve never sewn with houndstooth before so the first thing I did before cutting was study the fabric. I realized that houndstooth is a very distinct pattern that has a direction. And much like pinstripes, it has vertical lines. But it also has vertical lines, like a plaid. This was going to be interesting….

First thing I did was I ACTUALLY MADE A MUSLIN! Just of the top portion of the jacket. Having been sewing BWOF patterns the last several months has made me a little wary of bust fit correctly out of the box. But this Butterick pattern fitted my C cup (wearing my bra) Diana perfectly:

muslin.jpg

I decided this fabric should be treated as a plaid – and also all of the pattern pieces would need to be cut in one direction to match. The houndstooth was small enough that matching it perfectly wasn’t an absolute must, but in my case, I thought I would give it a shot.
I looked on the patternreview message boards about cutting houndstooth and I found a post where someone mentioned Sandra’s Betzina’s method of cutting plaids. (Coincidentally, Sandra Betzina has taught some classes at Stonemountain and Daughter). They mentioned cutting a single layer of the fabric for each pattern piece, then flip the pattern piece over, match up the lines with your cut piece and cut the second piece. Of course, this is a longer process, took me about 3 hours, but I’m glad I did it:

cutpiece1.jpg

Cut Piece 1 matching a line of the houndstooth to a notch for reference

matchpiece2.jpg

Flip piece over and cut out piece 2 matching vertical and horizontal

Taking this extra time to cut out the fabric has helped enormously when putting the jacket together. I have to say that although I love BWOF patterns, this Butterick has been an easy vacation from them! It is extremely well drafted and the instructions are easy to follow WITH PICTURES (ahhh). This is going to be one sharp looking coat. I just noticed that Patternreview has a new contest for wool fabric – I just may enter. My first contest!

 

2 thoughts on “Butterick B5145

  1. First, I am happy that you are continuing to post on your blog. I found it by chance via some other sewing blog site and love what you have done.
    Second, I appaude you for working with houndstooth. I love the look but I have never been brave enough to purchase. I can't wait to see how your coat comes along.
    Third, Love the pattern. This will make a elegant coat.
    Final, went back and read your post about ballroom costumes and have to say that they are beautiful. I, myself, used to make costumes for dancers. It was Western Dance, but they did ballroom, cha, rumba, 2 step. The real diffrence it that they did more pieces. Like bodysuit with 3 skirts that match.
    Good job.

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